Dhaulagiri (8167m) 2021
After a long covid period the planet is finally opening up again. I travelled back to Nepal and the Himalayas in August and started with 10 days trekking in a very empty Khumbu region. After my pre acclimatisation was done I continued to Dhaulagiri region were we aimed to climb this massive mountain. After a late start because of a heavy rainseason, landslides and destroyed roads we could finally start climbing on the 19 of September. Summit was reached on October first without 02 and porters. I used fixed ropes for my own requirements and safety. It was a tough climb because of weather and snow conditons and the rope fixing team did an amazing job to open up the mountain. As a bonus I completed the first swedish full climb of Dhaulagiri.
More of the Dhaulagiri climbing story is shared here:
Now lets talk 2022. Next year I will try and climb 7x8000m peaks in 7 months. In the same style as before, without any porters and extra oxygen but using fixed ropes and ropefixing team support. Climbing 8000m is already dangerous as it is and this will help me control some of the risks on the mountains aswell as improving my chances for reaching the summits. The main challenge is the recovery time in between the climbs and I will be collaborating with Seven Summit treks in Nepal for transports, basecamp services, logistics support and permits. They proved to everyone on Dhaulagiri that they are a top organiser this season for 8000m peaks and with the new trust established I will be climbing with them next season. Climbing period will be between the end of Mars to the end of October.
Now this is the next level in many ways and requires a strong preseason. Thats why I will be in Argentina from the end of December until Mars next year to prepare my body and mind for the hardest high altitude challenge I have taken on so far.
Get a postcard from any of the 8000m summits I will visit next year here:
Your support means alot!
Now lets get after our goals and put in the work!
Hi my name is Tim Bogdanov and I will be climbing Everest without bottled oxygen this May.
If you would like to support me and get a nice postcard from one of my photos along the way, then check out the options below and dont forget to add your adress!
I will then send you a personal postcard from the Himalayas, Andes or even Everest, that you will receive home to your mailbox!
10 usd support level 1:
Get a postcard from the High Andes or the trek in to Everest basecamp. Please specify Andes or Himalayas location you prefer to get the postcard from together with your name and adress at the donation page. Its also possible to get multiple cards from me 🙂
20 usd support level 2:
Get a postcard from between Everest basecamp 5300m and my camp 2 at 7100m. Please specify adress at the donation page.
50 usd support level 3:
Get a postcard from highcamp at 8000m. Get a postcard from the famous south col between Everest and Lhotse.
100 usd maximum support level:
Get a postcard from the highest point on the planet, 8848m summit of Everest! If I wont reach the summit I will send your money back.
To support from Sweden use swish to nr: +4746220656
Or swish QR code:
To support from Norway use vipps to nr: +4746845664
Or vipps QR code:
To support from other countries use my my gofoundme page:
Thanks for your support! It really means the world to me as I almost dont have any sponsors for my Everest without oxygen climb. And enjoy your unique postcard from me!
After climbing in Tadjikistan this summer and reaching 7495m I felt confident that a 8000m climb would work just fine. So I travelled to Nepal in september and climbed Manaslu 8163m. It did work out very good and I felt okey over 8000m, the altitude slowed me down but my awareness level was still pretty high above 8000m.
Manaslu in itself is a popular mountain, there are alot of chinese climbers on it every season, they probably represent the largest national group on this mountain.
There was more then 200 climbers on Manaslu this season and most of them made summit on 28-29 of September. I did some good planning and summited on the 27 just before the crowds went up. It was important because standing in line to reach the summit and climbing without extra oxygen would have been more risky. I already got light frostbite on my toes that today is healed up.
There is not much videos out there that covers Manaslu climbing experience so I made a 4 part video series about the summit push and the way down.
I was curious about what its like to climb 8000m and now when I have done it I can compare with other adventure projects that I have done or want to do in the future.
The price is a factor of these big mountains that cant be neglected, there is alot of cool stuff you can do for the same amount of money and I am not sure if I would like to spend that amount of money again from my pocket to climb 8000m. It would be in case I got some sponsors to help me out in the future. Now it feels like if the mountain conditions are right and with a proper weather window I would be able to make the summit on any 8000m without bottled oxygen. Everest would be a great challenge because its so much higher then most of the 8000m.
I might look for other challenges in the big mountains that offer a bigger challenge of remoteness and isolation without the comfort of a fully served basecamp were recovery is easier. But with proper sponsorship I would try Everest without bottled oxygen and sherpa support, because I believe its now in my comfortzone to do something like that and it would be a great challenge and reason to continue training.
The suffering is limited to a couple of days at a time on these big mountains and I have been training to endure longer periods of the body breaking down on other projects that I have done in the past, like spending almost two weeks climbing Ojos del Salado (6893m) and Walter Penk (6658m) from Argentinian side without seeing anyone for over 8 days doing solo high altitude climbing. When you do this kind of unsupported stuff all the supported alternatives become much more comfortable, and having a fully equipped basecamp is a big and comfy support that I did enjoy and could appreciate on Manaslu this year.
I will think about this. The money spent vs challenge and experience presented.
Next year I will try to complete the Snow leopard challenge first. Its a challenge of climbing all the five 7000m peaks of former Soviet union. I have now two more summits to climb and I will give it a go next summer and at the same time visit Uplift foundation that does some great work for the disabled kids of Kyrgyzstan. More about my involvement there can be found below make sure to check it out, I do need your help:
Anyway its been a great adventure season with some bicycletouring to Russia and the Fifa world cup, two high mountains and some speed trekking in the Annapurna area were I did a regular two week program in five days, already acclimatized and with a lightweight setup. My legs have never felt stronger.
The Machapuchare mountains seen from Mardi himal viewpoint at about 4000m
Stay strong and enjoy the mountains everyone!
This season I decided to walk alone into the Pamirs and Moskvina basecamp:
Later on I acclimatized on Korzhenevskaya mountain that I summited last season.
I did another acclimatization trip with the guides to put up fixed ropes on Kommunizma peak up to 6100m.
After all this I was ready for a summit attempt. We were a team of five people that climbed in a group and reached the summit as the first team of the season.
In late August I will travel to Nepal and try to find a fair deal for Manaslu 8160m. If I can do that I will climb this mountain in late September,early October.
Support the work we are doing in Kyrgyzstan for disabled children: