Its been a while since I was in the big mountains. After climbing Manaslu in 2018 I have been focusing on work and training until now. That is because Everest is an expensive climb and I have to pay it from my own pocket.
Finally the time have come to do what I love and Im leaving for Argentina on February 11. I will start of with visiting the Cordon del Plata range outside Mendoza for base acclimatization and get the body used to high altitude. I climbed in the area once before an it offers nice views and summits up to almost 6000m.
After that the idea is to climb Vulcano Tupungato (6500m) from Argentina side. This Vulcano is not frequently climbed from the argentinian side because its remote and the walk in to the summit is about 67km, then you have to get back aswell.
Another challenge is the river crossings on the way in. It migth be impossible to cross. So this one is a bit of a proper adventure with little info and unsure outcome and that makes it very exciting!
In Mars I will be travelling to Fiambala and climb some 6000m plus vulcanoes in the area and also try to sleep inside the crater of the highest vulcano in the world, Ojos del Salado (6893m). That should make for some great acclimatization!
If everything works out fine in Americas I will continue with my Everest plan and climb without bottled oxygen and without sherpa assistance. The only swede that has climbed Everest without bottled oxygen was Goran Kropp back in 1996.
I will need to be in Nepal around April 5 to fix everything for big E and set of as soon as possible to get up on altitude again. The plan is to walk in from lower altitude to get more training and avoid flying into Lukla.
Sometimes I will update my camping position and summits here:
Hi my name is Tim Bogdanov and I will be climbing Everest without bottled oxygen this May.
If you would like to support me and get a nice postcard from one of my photos along the way, then check out the options below and dont forget to add your adress!
I will then send you a personal postcard from the Himalayas, Andes or even Everest, that you will receive home to your mailbox!
10 usd support level 1:
Get a postcard from the High Andes or the trek in to Everest basecamp. Please specify Andes or Himalayas location you prefer to get the postcard from together with your name and adress at the donation page. Its also possible to get multiple cards from me 🙂
20 usd support level 2:
Get a postcard from between Everest basecamp 5300m and my camp 2 at 7100m. Please specify adress at the donation page.
50 usd support level 3:
Get a postcard from highcamp at 8000m. Get a postcard from the famous south col between Everest and Lhotse.
100 usd maximum support level:
Get a postcard from the highest point on the planet, 8848m summit of Everest! If I wont reach the summit I will send your money back.
To support from Sweden use swish to nr: +4746220656
Or swish QR code:
To support from Norway use vipps to nr: +4746845664
Or vipps QR code:
To support from other countries use my my gofoundme page:
After climbing in Tadjikistan this summer and reaching 7495m I felt confident that a 8000m climb would work just fine. So I travelled to Nepal in september and climbed Manaslu 8163m. It did work out very good and I felt okey over 8000m, the altitude slowed me down but my awareness level was still pretty high above 8000m.
Manaslu in itself is a popular mountain, there are alot of chinese climbers on it every season, they probably represent the largest national group on this mountain.
There was more then 200 climbers on Manaslu this season and most of them made summit on 28-29 of September. I did some good planning and summited on the 27 just before the crowds went up. It was important because standing in line to reach the summit and climbing without extra oxygen would have been more risky. I already got light frostbite on my toes that today is healed up.
There is not much videos out there that covers Manaslu climbing experience so I made a 4 part video series about the summit push and the way down.
I was curious about what its like to climb 8000m and now when I have done it I can compare with other adventure projects that I have done or want to do in the future.
The price is a factor of these big mountains that cant be neglected, there is alot of cool stuff you can do for the same amount of money and I am not sure if I would like to spend that amount of money again from my pocket to climb 8000m. It would be in case I got some sponsors to help me out in the future. Now it feels like if the mountain conditions are right and with a proper weather window I would be able to make the summit on any 8000m without bottled oxygen. Everest would be a great challenge because its so much higher then most of the 8000m.
I might look for other challenges in the big mountains that offer a bigger challenge of remoteness and isolation without the comfort of a fully served basecamp were recovery is easier. But with proper sponsorship I would try Everest without bottled oxygen and sherpa support, because I believe its now in my comfortzone to do something like that and it would be a great challenge and reason to continue training.
The suffering is limited to a couple of days at a time on these big mountains and I have been training to endure longer periods of the body breaking down on other projects that I have done in the past, like spending almost two weeks climbing Ojos del Salado (6893m) and Walter Penk (6658m) from Argentinian side without seeing anyone for over 8 days doing solo high altitude climbing. When you do this kind of unsupported stuff all the supported alternatives become much more comfortable, and having a fully equipped basecamp is a big and comfy support that I did enjoy and could appreciate on Manaslu this year.
I will think about this. The money spent vs challenge and experience presented.
Next year I will try to complete the Snow leopard challenge first. Its a challenge of climbing all the five 7000m peaks of former Soviet union. I have now two more summits to climb and I will give it a go next summer and at the same time visit Uplift foundation that does some great work for the disabled kids of Kyrgyzstan. More about my involvement there can be found below make sure to check it out, I do need your help:
Anyway its been a great adventure season with some bicycletouring to Russia and the Fifa world cup, two high mountains and some speed trekking in the Annapurna area were I did a regular two week program in five days, already acclimatized and with a lightweight setup. My legs have never felt stronger.
The Machapuchare mountains seen from Mardi himal viewpoint at about 4000m
Douglas Asplund borrowed me his spot tracker. While trekking probably alone in the Pamirs for a week and on peak Kommunizma I will post updates on the map below of my position. But dont count that it will work a 100% sometimes the signal wont connect to the sattelites. Anyway follow my position below probably going to try and upload my position at my daily campspots.