Dhaulagiri (8167m) 2021
After a long covid period the planet is finally opening up again. I travelled back to Nepal and the Himalayas in August and started with 10 days trekking in a very empty Khumbu region. After my pre acclimatisation was done I continued to Dhaulagiri region were we aimed to climb this massive mountain. After a late start because of a heavy rainseason, landslides and destroyed roads we could finally start climbing on the 19 of September. Summit was reached on October first without 02 and porters. I used fixed ropes for my own requirements and safety. It was a tough climb because of weather and snow conditons and the rope fixing team did an amazing job to open up the mountain. As a bonus I completed the first swedish full climb of Dhaulagiri.
More of the Dhaulagiri climbing story is shared here:
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Now lets talk 2022. Next year I will try and climb 7x8000m peaks in 7 months. In the same style as before, without any porters and extra oxygen but using fixed ropes and ropefixing team support. Climbing 8000m is already dangerous as it is and this will help me control some of the risks on the mountains aswell as improving my chances for reaching the summits. The main challenge is the recovery time in between the climbs and I will be collaborating with Seven Summit treks in Nepal for transports, basecamp services, logistics support and permits. They proved to everyone on Dhaulagiri that they are a top organiser this season for 8000m peaks and with the new trust established I will be climbing with them next season. Climbing period will be between the end of Mars to the end of October.
Now this is the next level in many ways and requires a strong preseason. Thats why I will be in Argentina from the end of December until Mars next year to prepare my body and mind for the hardest high altitude challenge I have taken on so far.
Get a postcard from any of the 8000m summits I will visit next year here:
Your support means alot!
Now lets get after our goals and put in the work!
This season I decided to walk alone into the Pamirs and Moskvina basecamp:
Later on I acclimatized on Korzhenevskaya mountain that I summited last season.
I did another acclimatization trip with the guides to put up fixed ropes on Kommunizma peak up to 6100m.
After all this I was ready for a summit attempt. We were a team of five people that climbed in a group and reached the summit as the first team of the season.
In late August I will travel to Nepal and try to find a fair deal for Manaslu 8160m. If I can do that I will climb this mountain in late September,early October.
Support the work we are doing in Kyrgyzstan for disabled children:
Douglas Asplund borrowed me his spot tracker. While trekking probably alone in the Pamirs for a week and on peak Kommunizma I will post updates on the map below of my position. But dont count that it will work a 100% sometimes the signal wont connect to the sattelites. Anyway follow my position below probably going to try and upload my position at my daily campspots.
I reached my goal Nizhny Novgorod after cycling 2500km from my hometown, Göteborg. It was fantastic to be at the Nizhny stadium and watch Sweden win over South Korea in their first world cup game. Here is my drone video summary of the tour:
Betfinal.com did video series about the journey as well and the first part you can watch below:
I am still collecting money for the my charity project in Kyrgyzstan and its possible to donate here.
Now its time for new adventures in fantastic Tadjikistan!