Climbing Manaslu 8163m and making new plans for 2019

After climbing in Tadjikistan this summer and reaching 7495m I felt confident that a 8000m climb would work just fine. So I travelled to Nepal in september and climbed Manaslu 8163m. It did work out very good and I felt okey over 8000m, the altitude slowed me down but my awareness level was still pretty high above 8000m.

Manaslu in itself is a popular mountain, there are alot of chinese climbers on it every season, they probably represent the largest national group on this mountain.

There was more then 200 climbers on Manaslu this season and most of them made summit on 28-29 of September. I did some good planning and summited on the 27 just before the crowds went up. It was important because standing in line to reach the summit and climbing without extra oxygen would have been more risky. I already got light frostbite on my toes that today is healed up.

There is not much videos out there that covers Manaslu climbing experience so I made a 4 part video series about the summit push and the way down.

I was curious about what its like to climb 8000m and now when I have done it I can compare with other adventure projects that I have done or want to do in the future.

The price is a factor of these big mountains that cant be neglected, there is alot of cool stuff you can do for the same amount of money and I am not sure if I would like to spend that amount of money again from my pocket to climb 8000m. It would be in case I got some sponsors to help me out in the future. Now it feels like if the mountain conditions are right and with a proper weather window I would be able to make the summit on any 8000m without bottled oxygen. Everest would be a great challenge because its so much higher then most of the 8000m.

I might look for other challenges in the big mountains that offer a bigger challenge of remoteness and isolation without the comfort of a fully served basecamp were recovery is easier. But with proper sponsorship I would try Everest without bottled oxygen and sherpa support, because I believe its now in my comfortzone to do something like that and it would be a great challenge and reason to continue training.

The suffering is limited to a couple of days at a time on these big mountains and I have been training to endure longer periods of the body breaking down on other projects that I have done in the past, like spending almost two weeks climbing Ojos del Salado (6893m) and Walter Penk (6658m) from Argentinian side without seeing anyone for over 8 days doing solo high altitude climbing. When you do this kind of unsupported stuff all the supported alternatives become much more comfortable, and having a fully equipped basecamp is a big and comfy support that I did enjoy and could appreciate on Manaslu this year.

I will think about this. The money spent vs challenge and experience presented.

Next year I will try to complete the Snow leopard challenge first. Its a challenge of climbing all the five 7000m peaks of former Soviet union. I have now two more summits to climb and I will give it a go next summer and at the same time visit Uplift foundation that does some great work for the disabled kids of Kyrgyzstan. More about my involvement there can be found below make sure to check it out, I do need your help:

https://www.gofundme.com/uplift-community-house-kyrgyzstan

Anyway its been a great adventure season with some bicycletouring to Russia and the Fifa world cup, two high mountains and some speed trekking in the Annapurna area were I did a regular two week program in five days, already acclimatized and with a lightweight setup. My legs have never felt stronger.

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The Machapuchare mountains seen from Mardi himal viewpoint at about 4000m

Stay strong and enjoy the mountains everyone!

 

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New videos from the Pamirs

This season I decided to walk alone into the Pamirs and Moskvina basecamp:

Later on I acclimatized on Korzhenevskaya mountain that I summited last season.

I did another acclimatization trip with the guides to put up fixed ropes on Kommunizma peak up to 6100m.

After all this I was ready for a summit attempt. We were a team of five people that climbed in a group and reached the summit as the first team of the season.

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Summit of Peak Kommunizma (7495m) From left: Jörgen Farner (Norway), Tomek Kaźmierczak (Poland) and Arek Pawłowski (Poland) missing team mate Ivan Tomov, was already on his way down (Bulgaria)

 

In late August I will travel to Nepal and try to find a fair deal for Manaslu 8160m. If I can do that I will climb this mountain in late September,early October.

Follow my updates on Instagram and Facebook.

Support the work we are doing in Kyrgyzstan for disabled children:

https://www.gofundme.com/uplift-community-house-kyrgyzstan

 

Tim

Fann mountains of Tadjikistan and preparations for Peak Kommunizma 7495m

Here is a short drone video I did from Alaudin valley were we passed beautiful lakes and high mountains.

I will start walking in to Moskvina basecamp on the 8 of July. When in basecamp I will get some more acclimatization and start climbing Peak Kommunizma when I feel ready to do so. I will try to find people to climb with in the basecamp and the walk in to bc I will probably do alone similar route as we did last year. Probably I will be able to post through the satellite wifi in basecamp but it will be very expensive and will be very sporadic. You can follow my progress on instagram: @timbogdanov

I plan to be back in Dushanbe in the end of July again.

 

Tim

New season, new projects and new collaboration

Well its that time of the year again, finally my outdoor season have started. Seven months in Oslo are finished and now its time to make reality of some new adventure projects again.

First off I am cycling to support the Swedish national team in the Football World cup in Russia. I want to honor the team effort after the Swedish national team made it through the qualifier and playoffs which demanded pushing the team effort to the limits of its capacity.

Also I am collecting money to our charity project in Kyrgyzstan. This will be brought to awareness during the trip and we hope to collect all funds needed to build the Uplift community house for disabled children and their families. Please support and read more here.

 

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Thanks to Cykelhuset in my hometown in Göteborg for helping out to prepare my bicycle!

 

 

The bicycletour will also be a great preseason for our upcoming high altitude climbs in Central Asia. We will be pushing our capabilities to new limits while trying to complete the Snow leopard award that consists of the five highest summits, all above 7000m, in the former soviet union.

The team will also consist of Douglas Asplund and young filmmaker Noah Sandgren this season.

I have also teamed up with my new main sponsor Betfinal.

 

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Looking forward to work with Betfinal from now on!

 

This feels like a good collaboration with an important focus of helping out my charity, and making an impact were it really matters. Betfinal has a conscious approach as a company and I really liked that. Also being someone who regularly likes to place bets on Football and UFC fights its interesting for me to explore and collaborate with a company that are working with online betting. Betfinal will create some really good content based on my projects so stay tuned for that.

On the 18 of May I am starting my bicycletour and the adventure season starts for real!

Follow my progress and daily updates here:

Instagram

My Facebook group for the cyclingtour to Russia (in swedish)    

You can find me on Facebook and Youtube for further content and updates.

 

And dont forget to get out and create your own adventure projects!

See you from the road next time!

 

Tim

 

 

 

 

The Snow Leopard Project

What happens when compassion is the highest motivation in our adventure projects? We are going to find out this summer when me and Noah Sandberg (16 years old) are going to do our best effort to collect resources through social medias to support a local cause in Kyrgyzstan. Taking conscious responsibility over the potential attention we might get from summiting 7000m plus and breaking records.

We are out to break or set mainly two new altitude records to elevate Swedish high altitude mountaineering.  With my guidance my young friend and climbing partner Noah Sandgren is going to become the youngest Scandinavian on 7000m plus at the age of 16.

The mountain we are climbing is Peak Lenin (7134m) and is one of the highest peaks in former Soviet union. Soviet union is also my birthplace, a place we had to escape because of the terrible conditions that the Soviet communism system presented. Its also a system that still even if not in use are making an impact onto the population of Central Asia. High corruption and high poverty are some of the major problems this region are still facing.  With your help we plan to make a difference for at least a couple of kids in Kyrgyzstan. All money collected will go towards helping the kids out, maybe buying them some bicycles or taking them to the mountains or similar activities to make a positive impact from our presence in Kyrgyzstan. Count on full transparency and no “middle hands”.  So stay tuned on our social media platforms for upcoming news about The Peak Lenin charity project. Our minimum goal is to collect 1000 euro before the climb and another 1000 euro after Peak Lenin summit.

Dont forget that we are privileged living in Scandinavia or in similar countries. We have access to spare time, energy and resources. We will be helping you to make an impact and to contribute in a way that will help this planet in a positive and direct way.

More about our support project will be shared once we identify the right cause to support in Kyrgyzstan. So check back on us the first week in July to contribute.

The second record I am out to set is becoming the first Scandinavian person to complete the Snow Leopard Project in old Sovietunion. Once again test myself and see if I can grow with the challenge and take the next step in my high altitude mountaineering progression. This classic soviet alpinist challenge includes summiting the five highest peaks in former Soviet union. The five peaks are: Peak Lenin (7134m), Peak Kommunizma (7495m), Peak Korhzenevskaya (7105m), Khan Tengri (6995) and Peak Pobeda (7439m). Photos of all the peaks are further down. Climbing all five in one season will require fast recovery from me and I will be needing a climbing partner or joining a team for Peak Pobeda because it is to difficult and dangerous to attempt solo, it is one of the hardest 7000m plus peaks on the planet. The weather and avalanche risk is also a big obstacle on many of the peaks.

Its been a very focused last 12 months for me with full dedication into the areas of: training, recovery, diet (plantbased), sleep and mental health. While saving up money working with Postnord, Norway. I had some training injuries in the process that I have shared alot about on my Instagram my story feed. But whatever I set out to accomplish in life there will be challenges and obstacles, so reaching my goals will always be about being adaptive to the conditions presented and understanding my obstacles to work my way through.

My obstacles this summer will be the following peaks in Kyrgyzstan and Tadjikistan:

 

Peak Lenin (7134m)

Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105m)

Peak Kommunizma (7495m)

 

Peak Pobeda (7439m)

Khan Tengri (6995m)

We are leaving home on the 29 of june, wish us luck and get your share of adventure on my instagram account were you will get the latest updates:

To understand the difficulty and put the project into perspective contact Swedish Climbing Association here:  kansliet@klatterforbundet.se

And dont forget to create your own adventure and find a mountain to climb on summitpost.org!

Photos copied from summitpost.org

Big Thanks for the support from our friends at:

Postnord Norway

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