Dhaulagiri (8167m) 2021

After a long covid period the planet is finally opening up again. I travelled back to Nepal and the Himalayas in August and started with 10 days trekking in a very empty Khumbu region. After my pre acclimatisation was done I continued to Dhaulagiri region were we aimed to climb this massive mountain. After a late start because of a heavy rainseason, landslides and destroyed roads we could finally start climbing on the 19 of September. Summit was reached on October first without 02 and porters. I used fixed ropes for my own requirements and safety. It was a tough climb because of weather and snow conditons and the rope fixing team did an amazing job to open up the mountain. As a bonus I completed the first swedish full climb of Dhaulagiri.

More of the Dhaulagiri climbing story is shared here:

Now lets talk 2022. Next year I will try and climb 7x8000m peaks in 7 months. In the same style as before, without any porters and extra oxygen but using fixed ropes and ropefixing team support. Climbing 8000m is already dangerous as it is and this will help me control some of the risks on the mountains aswell as improving my chances for reaching the summits. The main challenge is the recovery time in between the climbs and I will be collaborating with Seven Summit treks in Nepal for transports, basecamp services, logistics support and permits. They proved to everyone on Dhaulagiri that they are a top organiser this season for 8000m peaks and with the new trust established I will be climbing with them next season. Climbing period will be between the end of Mars to the end of October.

Now this is the next level in many ways and requires a strong preseason. Thats why I will be in Argentina from the end of December until Mars next year to prepare my body and mind for the hardest high altitude challenge I have taken on so far.

Get a postcard from any of the 8000m summits I will visit next year here:

https://gofund.me/2b47506e

Your support means alot!

Dhaulagiri summit first October 2021

Now lets get after our goals and put in the work!

Tim Bogdanov

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