Its been a while since I was in the big mountains. After climbing Manaslu in 2018 I have been focusing on work and training until now. That is because Everest is an expensive climb and I have to pay it from my own pocket.
Finally the time have come to do what I love and Im leaving for Argentina on February 11. I will start of with visiting the Cordon del Plata range outside Mendoza for base acclimatization and get the body used to high altitude. I climbed in the area once before an it offers nice views and summits up to almost 6000m.
After that the idea is to climb Vulcano Tupungato (6500m) from Argentina side. This Vulcano is not frequently climbed from the argentinian side because its remote and the walk in to the summit is about 67km, then you have to get back aswell.
Another challenge is the river crossings on the way in. It migth be impossible to cross. So this one is a bit of a proper adventure with little info and unsure outcome and that makes it very exciting!
In Mars I will be travelling to Fiambala and climb some 6000m plus vulcanoes in the area and also try to sleep inside the crater of the highest vulcano in the world, Ojos del Salado (6893m). That should make for some great acclimatization!
If everything works out fine in Americas I will continue with my Everest plan and climb without bottled oxygen and without sherpa assistance. The only swede that has climbed Everest without bottled oxygen was Goran Kropp back in 1996.
I will need to be in Nepal around April 5 to fix everything for big E and set of as soon as possible to get up on altitude again. The plan is to walk in from lower altitude to get more training and avoid flying into Lukla.
Sometimes I will update my camping position and summits here:
I will be posting most on instagram and share daily stories here:
If I have time I will do something on youtube also and share it on my channel: